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Cosmetic formulation guide

Orientation formulas

 

  INCI Name BRAND NAME / SUPPLIER QUANTITY %
A Cetyl alcohol (and) Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-75 Stearate (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Steareth-20 Emulium Delta / Gattefosse 3.5
  Isopropyl Myristate DUB IPM / Stearinerie Dubois 5
  Decyl oleate Cetiol V / Cognis 2.5
  Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Tegosoft CT / Evonik 6
  Cetearyl alcohol Crodacol CS90 / Croda 2
  Stearic acid Stearic acid / Cremer care 1.5
 B Water Water q.s
  Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer Sepinov EMT10 / Seppic 0.4
  Glycerin Glycerin / Cooper 5
C Fragaria vesca (strawberry) leaf extract Fresh'ka® / Berkem 0.5
D Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane SF 1258 / Brenntag 3
  Dipropylen glycol (and) Decylene glycol (and) Water (and) Methylisothiazolinone (and) Sodium chloride Microcare MTD1 / Thor 0.7
  Tocopheryl acetat DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetat / BASF 0.4
  Fragrance Black grape / Technicoflor 0.15

Protocol :
Weigh A and B and heat them separately to 75°C while homogenizing. While stirring (450 rpm), slowly add B at 75°C to A at 75°C. Continue stirring. Around 40 - 45°C, sprinkle Fresh'ka® into the emulsion. Continue stirring. Around 30°C, add C. Continue stirring moderately until room temperature is reached.
 

 

  INCI Name BRAND NAME / SUPPLIER QUANTITY %
A Cetyl alcohol (and) Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-75 Stearate (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Steareth-20 Emulium Delta / Gattefosse 3
  Cetearyl alcohol Crodacol CS90 / Croda 3
  Isopropyl palmitate DUB IPP / Stearinerie Dubois 6
  Squalane Squalane 3
 B Water Water q.s
  Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer Sepinov EMT10 / Seppic 0.3
  Propylene glycol Propylene glycol 4
C  Origanum vulgare leaf extract Origa'light® / Berkem 0.50
  Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane SF 1258 / Brenntag 3
  Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl glycol (and) Chlorphenesin Microkill cos / Quimasso 0.7
  Tocopheryl acetat DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetat / BASF 0.4
  Fragrance Hibiscus and jasmine / Robertet 0.15

Protocol :
Weigh A and B and heat them separately to 75°C while homogenizing. While stirring (450 rpm), slowly add B at 75°C to A at 75°C. Continue stirring. Around 40 - 45°C, sprinkle in Origa'light®. Continue stirring. Add the other ingredients. Continue stirring moderately until room temperature is reached.
 

  INCI TRADE NAME / SUPPLIER QUANTITIES %
A Cetyl alcolhol (and) Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-75 Stearate (and) Ceteth (and) Steareth-20 Emulium Delta / Gattefosse 3,00
  Isopropyl palmitate Palmitate isopropyle / Stearinerie Dubois 3.75
  Squalane Squalane / Laserson 2,50
  PPG-15 Stearyl ether Sympatens-ASP/150 / Kolb 2,00
  Cetearyl alcohol Crodacol CS90EP / Croda 1,75
  Glyceyl Stearate Sympatens GMS / Kolb 1,50
  Palmitoyl Theobroma Cacao extract Berkemyol Cacao 0,50
B Water (Aqua) Water QSP
  Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate Sepinov / Seppic 0,50
  Propylene glycol 1,2-Propyleneglycol Care / Laserson 4,00
  Glycerin Glycerin / Cooper 2,50
C Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl glycol Microcare PHG / Thor 1,00
  Tocopheryl acetate DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate / BASF 0,40
  Fragrance Cocoa 4/68848 / Apf arômes et parfums 0,20

 

Protocol :Disperse Sepinov EMT in water. Heat phases A and B separately at 75°C. Under rapid stirring, add B to A at 75°C. After emulsification and at around 35°C, add the other ingredients.
  INCI TRADE NAME / SUPPLIER QUANTITIES %
A PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Arlacel P135 / Croda 2,00
  Isohexadecane Arlamol HD / Croda 5.00
  Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride Crodamol GTCC-L-(MV) / Croda 3,00
  Cetyl alcohol Cetyl Alcohol / Stearinerie Dubois 1.50
  PPG-15 Stearyl ether Sympatens-ASP/150 / Kolb 2,00
  Magnesium stereate Stereate de magnesium / Stearinerie Dubois 0,60
  Palmitoyl Camelia Sinensis Extract Berkemyol Green Tea 0,20
B C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Crodamol AB-LQ-(RB) / Croda 3,50
  Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (and) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Uvinul A Plus B / Laserson 2,50
  Titanium Dioxyde (and) Aluminium Hydroxide (and) Dimethicone/Methicone Copolymer T-Lite SF / Laserson 1,00
C Water (Aqua) Water QSP
  Xanthan gum Keltrol CG / Arnaud Azelis 0,20
  Glycerin Glycerin / Cooper 3,50
D Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane SF 1258 / Brenntag 2,50
E Dipropylene glycol (and) Decylene glycol (and) Water (and) Methylisothiazolinone (an) Sodium chloride Microcare MTD1 / Thor 0,70
  Tocopherol DL-alpha-Tocopherol / BASF 0,40
  Fragrance Green Tea Fragrance 1000921 / Expressions Parfumées 0,15


Protocol : Disperse the xanthan gum in the water and the filters in the C12-15 alkyl benzoate. Add B to A. Heat phases A+B and C separately at 75°C. Under rapid stirring, add C to A+B. After emulsification add D. Maintain the agitation and at around 35°C, add the ingredients of phase E.

 Viscosity :
10 600 mPa.s (Brookfield RVT, spindle 3, rpm 2.5)

 

  INCI TRADE NAME : SUPPLIER QUANTITIES %
A Glyceryl stearate (and) Stearyl alcohol (and) Sodium stearoyl lactylate (and) glyceryl stearate citrate Blanova Muls Eco 2277 / Kolb 5
  Wheat germ butter Wheat germ butter / Chimilab Essor 6
  Butyrospermum Parkii Beurre de karité première pression raffine / Olvea 4
  Pistacia vera seed oil Huile de pistache raffinee / Olvea 3
  Isopropyl palmitate Palmitate isopropyle / Stearinerie Dubois 4
  Paraffinum liquidum Puretol 9D/ Arnaud Azelis 1
  Cetearyl alcohol Crodacol CS90EP / Croda 3.5
  Ozokerite Ozokerite / Chimilab Essor 1
  Palmitoyl Tormentilla Erecta Root Extract Berkemyol potentilla / Berkem 0,3
B Water (aqua) Water / Arnaud Azelis QSP
  Xanthan gum Keltrol CG-SFT / Arnaud Azelis 0,30
  Glycerin Glycerine / Cooper 2,5
C Cyclopentasiloxare (and)cyclohexasiloxane SF1258 / Brenntag 2.50
D Tocopherol DL-alpha-Tocophero l/ BASF 0,40
  Dipropylene glycol (and) Decylene glycol (and) Water (and) Methylisothiazolinone (and) Sodium chloride Microcare MTD1 / Thor 0,70
  Fragrance Potentille 1000923 / Expressions Parfumées 0,30


Protocol : Disperse the cellulose and carbomer in the water. Heat phases A and B separately at 75°C. Under rapid stirring, add B to A at 75°C. After emulsification and at around 35°C, add the other ingredients. Disperse the cellulose and carbomer in the water. Heat phases A and B separately at 75°C. Under rapid stirring, add B to A at 75°C. After emulsification and at around 35°C, add the other ingredients.


Viscosity : 96 800 mPa.s (spindle 6, rpm 2,5)

 
  INCI TRADE NAME / SUPPLIER QUANTITIES %
A Glyceyl Stearate Sympatens GMS / Kolb 3,00
  Polysorbate 80 Kotilen 0/1VL / Kolb 2,00
  Isononanoate isononyle Isononanoate isononyle / Stearinerie Dubois 4,00
  Caprix/Caprylic Triglyceride Crodamol GTCC-L-(MV) / Croda 3,00
  Squalane Squalane / Laserson 2.25
  Cetyl alcohol Cetylic alcohol / Stearinerie Dubois 1.50
  Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Aristoflex AVC / Clariant 0,25
  Palmitoyl Camelia Sinensis Extract Berkemyol Green Tea 0,20
B Water (Aqua) Water QSP
  Glycerin Glycerin / Cooper 4,50
C Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane SF 1258 / Brenntag 2,50
D Tocopheryl acetate DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate / BASF 0,50
  Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl glycol Microcare PHG / Thor 1
  Fragrance Green Tea Fragrance 1000921 / Expressions Parfumées 0,20

 

Protocol : Heat A and B separatly at 75°C. Under rapide stirring add B to A. After emulsification, add C. Maintain the stirring and around 35°C add the ingredients of D.

 Viscosity :
72 700 mPa.s (spindle 5, rpm 5)
Appearance :
White thick cream
  INCI TRADE NAME / SUPPLIER QUANTITIES %
A Sorbitan Laurate (and) Polyglyceryl-10 laurate Sympatens O/4200 / Kolb 2.50
  Isononanoate isononyle Isononanoate isononyle /Stearinerie Dubois 5,00
  Caprix/Caprylic Triglyceride Crodamol GTCC-L-(MV) / Croda 3.00
  Cetyl alcohol Cetylic alcohol / Stearinerie Dubois 2.00
  Glyceyl Stearate Sympatens GMS / Kolb 1.25
  Palmitoyl Tormentilla Erecta Root Extract Berkemyol potentille / Berkem 0,50
B Water (aqua) Water QSP
  Carbomer Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer / Gattefosse 0.15
  Xanthan gum Keltrol CG / Arnaud Azelis 0,20
  Glycerin Glycerin / Cooper 4.50
C Cyclopentasiloxare (and)cyclohexasiloxane SF1258 / Brenntag 3.50
D Dipropylene glycol (and) Decylene glycol (and) Water (and) Methylisothiazolinone (and) Sodium chloride Microcare MTD1 / Thor 0,70
  Tocopheryl acetate DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate / BASF 0,050
  Fragrance Potentilla Fragrance 1000923 / Expressions Parfumées 0,25
E Sodium Hydroxide Hydroxyde de sodium à pH 5,5 - 6,5
F CI 77891 Unipure White LC 987 / LCW Sensient cosmetic Technologies 4,10
  CI 77492 Unipure Yellow LC 182 / LCW Sensient cosmetic Technologies 1.12
  CI 77491 Unipure Red LC 381 / LCW Sensient cosmetic Technologies 0.22
  CI 77499 Unipure Triple black LC990 / LCW Sensient cosmetic Technologies 0.15
  Propylene glycol 1,2-Propyleneglycol Care / BASF 2.40

 

Protocol : Disperse the cellulose and carbomer in the water. Heat phases A and B separately at 75°C. Under rapid stirring, add B to A at 75°C. After emulsification and at around 35°C, add the other ingredients. Mix pigments of phase F and add propylen glycol. Disperse xanthan gum and carbomer in water. Heat the phases A and B at 75°C. Under rapide stirring, add B to A. After emulsification add C. Add other ingredients of D around 35°C. Add F

Viscosity : 30 000 mPa.s (spindle 4, rpm 2,5)

Appearance : Light brown shiny viscous cream 
  INCI TRADE NAME / SUPPLIER QUANTITIES %
A Sorbitan Laurate (and) Polyglyceryl-10 laurate Sympatens O/4200 / Kolb 2,50
  Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride Crodamol GTCC-LQ-(MV) / Croda 6,00
  Isononanoate isononyle Isononanoate isononyle / Stearinerie Dubois 5,00
  Vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil Grape seed oil / Olvea 2,00
  Polymethylmethacrylate SJ-Touch-1 / Arnaud Azelis 1,50
  Palmitoyl pine bark extract Berkemyol Maritime Pine 0,50
B Water (Aqua) Water QSP
  Carbomer Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer / Gattefosse 0,20
  Xanthan gum Keltrol CG / Arnaud Azelis 0,20
  Glycerin Glycerin / Cooper 4,50
C Tocopherol DL-Alpha Tocopherol / BASF 0,40
  Dipropylene glycol (and) Decylene glycol (and) Water (and) Methylisothiazolinone (and) Sodium chloride Microcare MTD1 / Thor 0,70
  Fragrance Pine Fragrance 4/67454 / APF Arômes et Parfums 0,30
D Sodium Hydroxide Sodium hydroxyde to pH 5,5 - 6,5

 

Protocol : Disperse the carbomer and xanthan gum in the water. Heat phase A and B separately at 75°C. Under rapid stirring, add B at 75°C to A at 75°C. Keep stirring and at around 35°C add the ingredients of phase C. Neutralise with NaOH.

 

  INCI TRADE NAME / SUPPLIER QUANTITIES %
A Steareth-2 Brij 72 / Croda 3
  Steareth-21 Brij 721 / Croda 2
  Isohexadecane Arlamol HD / Croda 4
  PPG-15 Stearyl ether Sympatens-ASP/150 / Kolb 1,75
  Isopropyl palmitate Palmitate isopropyle / Stearinerie Dubois 4,5
  Squalane Squalane / Laserson 2
  Cetyl alcohol Cetylic alcohol / Stearinerie Dubois 2,25
  Butyrospermum Parkii First-press refined cocoa butter / Olvea 1,5
  Zea mays oil Epaline DM / Arnaud Azelis 1
  Palmitoyl Tormentilla Erecta Root Extract Berkemyol potentilla / Berkem 0,5
B Water (aqua) Water QSP
  Carbomer Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer / Gattefosse 0,15
  Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose Methocel 40-202 / Unipex 0,17
  Glycerin Glycerin / Cooper 4,5
  Fragrance Potentilla Fragrance 1000923 / Expressions parfumées 0,3
  Tocopheryl acetate DL-alpha-Tocopherol / BASF 0,4
  Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl glycol Microcare PHG / Thor 1
C Cyclopentasiloxare (and)cyclohexasiloxane SF1258 / Brenntag 3,25
  Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxyde to pH 5,5 - 6,5

 

Protocol : Disperse the cellulose and carbomer in the water. Heat phases A and B separately at 75°C. Under rapid stirring, add B to A at 75°C. After emulsification and at around 35°C, add the other ingredients. Neutralise with NaOH to obtain a pH of 5.5 to 6. Leave to act until it reaches room temperature under moderate stirring.

 pH = 5.9
Viscosity :
121 600 mPa.s (Brookfield RVT, spindle 5, rpm 2.5)